I did it!

On our last visit to Devon and whilst researching running or biking trails I came across the Tarka Trail, or was it Tarka Trial? At 30 miles it is one of the country's longest continuous traffic-free walking and cycling paths. And I determined at some unspecified time to do at least its southern 26 miles. And so, armed with the loan of J's bike and adequate clothing and supplies of food and water, I took the plunge and set out yesterday at 06:00.

My track in OpenTopoMap

You can follow my track in detail by downloading my track GPX file, opening a the link to OpenTopoMap, clicking the GPX button at top left and selecting the file. You can then zoom in/out and interactively follow the route via the mouse in the elevation profile. On a slow connection the underlying map may take a while to load, and the OpenTopoMap server appears to be designed to slow down if you request too many map tiles.

Or, in brief the track was 42.8 miles to get to the southernmost end of the trail, 26 miles of traffic free trail, and then home via the very busy North Devon Link road A361, a total of 106.7 miles, elevation gain 2054m, average speed moving 10.7 mph. The trail boasts two tunnels and numerous bridges under roads and over rivers, mostly existing but one bridge built especially for the trail.

first segment, courtesy Google Maps

The outward journey was selected by Google Maps with the bicycle option and was enjoyable - very little traffic, mostly side-roads including one segment of footpath. The Tarka Trail itself was delectable. It mostly follows former dismantled railway lines so the gradients are gentle. Initially quiet of Other People, the closer I got to Bideford the busier it became with a significant proportion of walkers as well as bikers, and of children whose riding skills were questionable.

The return journey via the A361 was gruelling, but then I expected no better. Never was anyone so glad to see the little houses of Tiverton perched on their hillside, and then to negotiate the roundabout where I left the A361.

The first village on my outward journey was Brithem Bottom. I'm not sure what was special about his, but on my return mine was, and still is, well imprinted with bicycle saddle. Another random observation was about Barnstaple, the termination of the Tarka Trial as far as I was concerned (the traffic free part does go a bit further north to Braunton Burrows and it would have been cool to go that far but, really...). Bideford and all before it was delightful. The locals had obviously tried to make the trail an experience in dressing up the old stations, adding Interesting Things to do or look at, and providing coffee shops and the like. And besides, Bideford is, in my childhood memories, the gateway to Westward Ho!

But between Bideford and Barnstaple the experience dwindled until at Barnstaple the Braunton route tacitly veered off across the bridge over the river Taw leaving those that didn't go that way with a quandary. Local inhabitants appeared to have interest only in giant Asda and Tesco Extra mega-stores and when I asked several passers-by how I might get from where I was to the A361 their response was a mixture of incredibility that anyone should want to bike to Tiverton at all, and ignorance as to the basic geography of the place. Oh, and my own chosen route had been over a foot bridge that had been closed, seemingly permanently. I had intended to take my picnic lunch on a suitable patch of lush grass at the Barnstaple end of the trail, but as no such patch existed I ended up in a noisy layby on the A361 out of town. No, Barnstaple is not the place for outside people like me. 

Here is a link to my photo album for those that cannot zoom in on the following.

first mention: a non-cycle part of Tarka near Dolton

Start of the cycle Tarka trail at Meeth

The old station at Meeth

Example of wayside interests

Example of frequent wayside sculptures

A former railway station

The new bridge over the river Torridge

River Torridge

Torrington station

The longer of two tunnels at Landcross

Girder bridge over the Torridge estuary

Looking back on same

The same

Ruin across the Torridge

First sight of Bideford

Bideford railway station that was

View across road bridge over Torridge

Ship wreck north of Bideford

Somewhere near Appledore

Mud flats between Bideford and Barnstaple

Utterly running late

Willand to almost Bickleigh and back

Bickleigh on Google Maps

My goal was to reach the river Exe at Bickleigh Mill and explore the famous bridge, mill with its weir, and railway centre. I am an advocate of the Oxford comma without which that list would have meant something different. I got within a quarter mile (see aerial photo above) but then, sadly, had to turn back, like...

This time, we were just about to land, maybe three feet... when, what do you think, we run out of gasoline again. Back we go and get more gas.

...because I had an appointment to keep. Even so it felt (on the way back) as if this was going to be at least an 18 mile round trip and I was a bit miffed to find my GPS trip statistics claimed a mere:

- total distance 15.83 miles

- average speed moving 5.53 mph (11:37 min per mile)

- elevation gain 832m

- maximum elevation 213m

- minimum elevation 44m

Butterleigh Meadow

My route took me through the beautiful Devon village of Butterleigh, which boasts a nice meadow for running barefoot in, and then past James' farm, the significance of which will be apparent to only a Few who will also know the significance of the eggs for sale there. 

James' farm

Eggs for sale

And back via Brithem Bottom, which is to this area as Crewe is to British Rail, where I was obliged to phone Ali to warn her that I was running late...

A quest for X

26th and 28th December runs

On a previous visit my quest was Culmstock Beacon. Is it, of course, good for one's psychology to have a goal and, this time, I have chosen the Exe: that river that flows of course through Exeter. Its nearest approach to Willand is at Tiverton so, if you will, Tiverton is the goal. We drive there often for shopping (no expedition with Ali would be complete without frequent recourse to shops) but I have hitherto assumed it was beyond my running reach.


26th run - clockwise in blue on my map - 9.55 miles.

Actually the X goal had not yet quite resolved itself and I set out rather to explore high ground to the west of Cullompton, returning via Brithem Bottom (all roads around in the locality appear to lead there) and Halberton. It rained for the whole duration of my run, steadily increasing in intensity. I was glad to get back. In fact I cannot think of a time that I have not been glad to get back after a long run.

Beacon lane

descending Forges Hill

rain on Halberton duck pomd

Yesterday's run - anticlockwise in red on my map - 11.14 miles, average 6 mph.

This time I wanted to explore the track of the GWR railway between Tiverton and Willand, as cycle way. Regrettably not metalled I found I was running on the remains of ballast, not comfortable barefoot. Sad that the railway no longer exists but good that at least a small stretch has been preserved as a cycle way. I met several dog walkers, two boys who commented on my feet, though no cyclists. You'd need a mountain bike I think.

Grand Canal at Halberton

joining the cycle way

once steam locomotives thundered here

where I left the cycle way for smoother ground

Tiverton

Grand Canal near Tidcombe Hall

The second canal crossing marked the furthest extent of my run. The return was, of course, via Brithem Bottom, and the roads were still icy in parts where the winter sun had not yet reached.

PV array between Willand and Cullompton

the day is dying

The river Exe remains my goal. Whether I make it on this trip I know not but, if and when I do, it will be significantly longer than yesterday's run, maybe 15 miles. Which is kind of scary.

Cullompton byways

Track #1 - Cullompton byways - 14.39km

Battling a minor cold, it's 0600 hours on Friday morning and off for my first run during this stay at Ali's mother's. Not enough time today for my planned run to the beacon q.v. so just down to and around Cullompton.

Early morning on the M5 looking south

I saw the first suggestion of mist as I crossed the M5 towards Cullompton but from there on the mist was heavy and, concerned for my own safety on the main road, I changed plan and turned off towards Brithem Bottom where I found a foot-path, then back towards Cullompton, another foot-path and then along the river Culm.

Pond farm

Sutton Barton

Sunshine magic

More magic just south of Tesco's

Cullompton Community Association fields

Back along the east side of the river

Hallmark selfie

From Cullompton back home via Long Moor was a route I have traversed several times and thus unworthy of any new photos!

Around Rural Willand 3

This run was more satisfactory than my last. I do not mind roads if quiet and not too stony, but the goal is to find barefoot-friendly paths and this run satisfied. I started out towards Cullompton then turned right through Brithem Bottom - a splendid name, I wonder who Brithem was? The path was the right-of-way over Turley Down and took me right through the middle of fields. Great for me, but it must be a trial for the farmer.

I love England for its right-of-ways. Or should one say rights-of-way?  Since moving to Ireland we have seen the instigation of several way-marked longer walks like the Wicklow Way, but nothing like the vast network in England. Besides, the right-of-way law is different here in Ireland and in the favour of the land-owner. And most land-owners here don't want folk walking over their land.

Ascending Turley Down

and down the far side

looking back, having reached the road

Heading north I had to divert to investigate the aqueduct where the Grand Weston Canal crosses the course of the broad-gauge branch of the Bristol and Exeter railway. Running gives time for pondering - I wondered which came first, canal or railway? Wikipedia reckons this section of the canal was opened in 1814, whereas the railway was built 34 years later. It must have been quite a challenge building an aqueduct in retrospect, but back in those days they thrived on challenges.

The Aqueduct and course of the railway 

Looking North

It actually has a name!

The railway bed from the aqueduct

Looking South

Eleven miles of the canal starting at Tiverton are still navigable as the house boats testify in the picture above. Sadly the broad gauge railway no longer exists although there is "the last remaining" broad gauge locomotive on view in the South Devon Railway museum .

Halberton parish church

The next port of call was the village of Halberton where I took a short-cut through the church-yard and by the village pond. All English villages of any repute have a duck-pond and I have to say that this one is above average. It even had ducks.

Halberton village pond

And then back along the busier road from Halberton to Willand for a much deserved breakfast.

Total distance 8.35 miles, average speed 4.83 m.p.h.