Out of Africa - life in Kenya

A few random photographs of Kenya generally, to give a flavour of the culture there.

On the way to a market in Kisumu,
the half-completed roadworks are a typical scene

The afore mentioned market

These rudely made carcasses will become quite presentable armchairs

A funeral procession, horns blaring, outside our church in Mudete

The same, with a Boda Boda passing by. Crash helmets are rare.

A hardware shop in Mudete. Note the bars and the spelling!

Click to enlarge and check out the writing on the bus

Passing a crowd going to a bull-fight, on the way to Kakamega Forest

Boda Boda delivery man

The main road deteriorates whilst a bridge is being build

Scary scaffolding abounds

Market in Kakamega town

We purchased some mangoes

A pretentious dwelling outside Kisumu 

Out of Africa - Electrics

One of my tasks whilst visiting J&S in Kenya was to install lighting and a 13A outlet in the new school room. Some allowance had been made during the building work, so there was already a conduit from a 13A socket in the adjacent church to the roof space above the school room.

This post is about what I learnt about Kenyan wiring and some confessions.

The incoming supply is overhead from a roadside pole where only two wires are visible. As far as I could tell, then, the earthing system is 'TT' i.e. the protective earth is supplied by the customer and there is no explicit connection to the supply authority's earth.

I learned that, as a rule, red = Live, black = Neutral, green/yellow = Earth. And that all domestic carcass wiring is done in 20mm black plastic conduit. I say "as a rule" because apparently rules are there only to be broken.

Incoming supply switch-gear

You can click on these images to enlarge them. The picture shows the supply authority's switch-gear which is mounted in a rough metal enclosure on the outside wall of the church. The incoming supply is the black (coaxial?) cable entering at the top and terminates in the DIN-rail double-pole switch at left. This is turn connects to the HXP100DIM metering module via scarily thin wires possible only 2.5 sq.mm. This module has a twin wire data connection to a coin-slot meter inside the church. The supply connects from here to the larger switch on the right where it is joined by an earth cable presumably connected to the customer's earthing rod.

There is a thoroughly normal consumer unit inside the church building with several MCB's which supply lighting and power outlets.

Showing the incoming supply cable in the angled conduit

You'll see that nothing is properly fastened to anything - the supply authority's conduit is roughly supported at a crazy angle only by the geometry of the wall.

Church socket wiring, with my spur connected

Within the church, which is in effect a large single room, there is what I take to be a ring circuit running around the perimeter. It runs in conduit under the plaster but becomes visible at periodic conduit boxes none of which are fitted with lids. For all that effort I could find only two double 13A sockets on this ring, both on the platform. One was hanging (not screwed in). The other (shown above) was properly fastened and was where the provided conduit to the school terminated.  You'll see from this that the colour scheme adopted is:

Green/yellow = Live, green/yellow = Neutral, red = Earth.

In spite of that unfortunate choice the wire gauge appears to be correct i.e. 2.5 sq.mm for Live and Neutral.

My wiring uses the correct Kenyan colours and can be seen connected as a spur in the above picture.  We purchased our wire by the metre at a hardware store in nearby Chavakali.  Here I specified 2.5 for power and 1.5 for lighting, and the store (and I) judged the correct gauge by the larger outer insulator diameter for the supposed 2.5 sq.mm. However when I started working with this wire I found the outer diameter to be a lie, as shown below where I latter compared with wires stripped from Irish 2.5 sq.mm T&E cable.  The bare copper earth wire at top is thus 1.5 sq.mm.

It would appear that the Kenyan green/yellow and black "2.5" is indeed 2.5 sq.mm but the red "2.5" is in fact much less, perhaps 1.5 sq.mm.  And of the two lighting gauge wires at bottom right only the red one is really 1.5, the black being significantly less maybe only 1 sq.mm.

Comparison of wires

Did this matter?  Given the sloppy nature of the wiring generally, our reluctance to go source the correct gauge, and the fact that the two new lights were rated 35W each and that the single double-socket would be used at most only to charge electronic computing equipment, I reckoned not.

According to Irish code an unfused spur from a ring circuit is not allowed, also not allowed is a direct connection from a ring circuit to a reduction in wire gauge for lighting. But I committed both sins, in addition to the wrong wire gauge I had been duped into buying.

But at least all my wiring was in conduit and used the correct colours. Whereas at J&S's house, which had been wired by a "professional" electrician, the conduit stops a few inches short of lighting fixtures so you have single-insulated wire bridging this gap, albeit sometimes wrapped in insulation tape for good measure.

Oh, and when the plumber came to connect a tap to the rainwater tank we had installed, he needed mains power for his electric "welding" machine for PPR water pipe.  An extension cable was not to be had. Indeed his complete tool set consisted only in this rather ancient machine and a couple of plumbing wrenches. We had to supply hack-saw, pipe and fittings, lunch and a drink. So I used some of our recently purchased black lighting wire, connecting into his machine's 13A plug at one end and splicing into the ring main in one of those exposed conduit boxes at the other end, there not being a 13A socket within reach. It did the job, though would hardly have passed health and safety.

Brunel's Folly

The 1856 railway route from Bray to Greystones was designed by world famous Isambard Kingdom Brunel and to this day the line is known as Brunel's Folly on account of the high cost of maintenance.

The original route crossed Brandy Hole on a wooden trestle bridge but there was a bad accident there so the line had to be moved further inland to its present course, necessitating additional tunnels.

The 1867 accident at Brandy Hole

Google Earth view of Brandy Hole

You can see the original coarse in this aerial view, and also from the train q.v.

We walked from Bray up to the cross then down to the cliff walk to Greystones, then rode back by train.  From the cliff above a tunnel opening we took the following pictures.

I suppose the extra rails are to strengthen

Not sure why they have signals on a single line,
but this one turned red a little before the train emerged

Here cometh said train

At top middle you can see the now unused tunnel for the original track alignment.

We waived to the driver and he tooted back

Ventilation shaft to the longest of the tunnels

This I think is where the original trestle bridge sprung from

Bray station, the third line for through trains seems an overkill

Bray station: train arriving from Dublin

The sea, the sea, at Bray

Detail of the beginning of the strengthening, Bray end

Out of Africa - Kakamega forest

Kakamega forest is Kenya's only tropical rainforest and, we were told, used to be much larger than it now is. We visited a government run tourist station and paid for a 2 hour guided tour along the Mama Mutere trail.

Whole forest relative to Mudete

detail showing the Forest Station and Rondo Retreat

Our guide Nancy beside tea plantation bordering the forest

R gazing at...

...a monkey - we saw many

H climbing the void in a strangler fig tree

The strangler fig tree grows around its host which eventually gives up the unequal struggle and dies, leaving a chimney within the fig, which our crew climbed up.

Atop the observation tower, strictly unsafe to climb

The tower overlooks a clearing north of the station (see map)

one of many

Having done the forest we checked out nearby Rondo Retreat hoping to have lunch there, but reckoned it was too expensive. A really nice place though, so very well kept and so very colonial in style.

Hot water system at Rondo Retreat

Out of Africa - Lake Victoria

We travelled in a boat like this

Early on in our visit we enjoyed a two hour boat ride on Lake Victoria starting at Hippo Point just south of Kisumu.  As with all my blog posts you can click on the images to increase their size.

Showing the Kisumu inlet

Lake Victoria is the world's second largest fresh water lake by surface area, after Lake Superior in North America, and is the head of the White Nile. Our boat journey took us a few miles south of Hippo Point and thus wholly within the relatively small inlet in the lake hosting Kisumu, and yet even this part of the lake appears immense.

Our tour guide

Fishing, and the distant shore

Fish market, Dunga beach

That which we came to see

Personally I found the surreal almost lack of horizon more stunning than the hippos. After all you can see hippos in any zoo but the misty flatness was peculiar to Lake Victoria. I am reminded of those sky-sea-scape scenes in the Life of Pi, a film which I found intensely beautiful even if the plot was slightly odd. I would gladly watch the film again just to gorge myself on those scenes.

No sign of the distant shore

No sign now of even the horizon

All about me was flatness and infinity, an endless panorama... 

(from the novel by Yann Martel). 

Yann's sentiment expressed in the film Life of Pi

Out of Africa - To Build a School

View from the road

The school room and S making worksheets

Washing hands before lunch

Like I said our primary reason for the trip was to encourage and help with the school project J and S are setting up which you can read about in their words here.  Kenyan building standards are something else and, J's general vision being to redeem, we spent some while removing cement that the builders had kindly splattered over the window frames, in readiness for painting. We also installed electric lights in the school room and a gutter system with tank to store rainwater from the church roof for hand and dish washing. Previously all water had to be purchased and brought in. Now only drinking water will have to be purchased, at least until the tank runs dry which it quickly will in the dry seasons. Here in Ireland we take potable water on tap for granted but there in Africa very few would have this privilege.

Sister B collecting rain water

It rained heavily just after we erected the gutter but before we fed the outlet to the tank. Dinner lady Sister B filled up all the containers she could find with water from the spout and you can see her here braving the downpour. Such is the value of water.

Our gutter system and storage tank completed

Whilst working at the school we participated in the school food prepared faithfully every day by Sister B. A typical lunch is beans and rice and the children put away vast portions this being their main meal of the day. B somehow manages to add interest to the flavour by adding maybe onion or tomato. I couldn't manage all of the portion.

The beans come mixed with dirt and sticks so have to be sorted

Mid-morning every school day B dishes out her legendary "porridge" which I suppose is a mix of various grains. For some of the kids this will be the first meal of their day. It reminded me of my childhood attempts to make "tea" by mixing builder's sand and water and adding grated chalk as "milk". The texture was gritty, like sand, and the taste bland. I manfully finished my first day's mug-full but thereafter declined much to the amusement of Sister B. On the other hand R declared every meal he participated in during the trip as being wonderful and I applaud this sentiment. He is, after all, a growing lad.

Downing B's porridge

My portion

Asked what might be the next major need for church and school, I figured it would be better loo's. At present there is a corrugated iron "shed" with two cubicles, each with sort-of tiled floor with a hole in the middle discharging into a pit beneath. For men to urinate is one thing, but how the Kenyan women often with flowing dresses or robes manage I find hard to imagine. But they do, and succeed, for this arrangement is common. Of course the children also use these loo's and perhaps do not aim quite right.  Inside there is no electric light, no loo paper (you bring your own), no window, and lots of smell. I took pains to arrange my motions to avoid times at the school.

Nap time in the main church building

After lunch the children all take a nap, giving the teachers a break to prepare for the afternoon lessons. Seeing them all on their foam mattresses reminded me of Lewis's dufflepuds asleep.

Hand wash station with our newly installed tap

You'll see our new tap in the picture above. Outside taps like this have to be locked because of the high value of water, even that collected from a dusty roof! Note the swings J designed and erected in the background.

Out of Africa

View from my office

Our road

After being turned away by Dublin airport closing due to snow, we re-booked for two days later thinking all would be well.  It wasn't. After trying everything including prayer we ended up being taken on the back of our tractor to the N81 main road where we were met by an old friend who had agreed to drive us from there to the airport. A small miracle I can assure you. Even on the main roads the journey was not without challenge as some parts on the way to Naas had been cleared only to single vehicle width with drifts either side as high as the car. But we made it, and we figured that our trip to Kenya was providential given the opposition that had been thrown at us: the freak weather, difficulties re-booking through our booking agent, neighbours who told us it was impossible...

And now our two weeks is up and I'm back at home, "we" being myself and my companion R. The joy of walking out of Dublin Terminal 1 into cool fresh Irish air! Nearer home the road-side snow drifts have not yet fully melted and there is still snow on the mountains.

Data and time shortage prevented me posting whilst in Africa but I took loads of photos of which I will share a few publicly in due course.

Our entry into Kenya was at Nairobi airport. Would be visitors note: in addition to purchasing a single-entry eVisa for US$50 ahead of time, on arrival you need a ball-point pen to fill in a buff coloured form. No-one tells you this has to be done, but if you get to the immigration officer without it you are turned back and have to start over. And there are no spare pens to be had: if there had been they would have been stolen.  Armed with passport and both these we got in line again for immigration, then moved on to the baggage reclaim hall, and thence to customs. They had run out of customs declaration forms but this didn't seem to matter. But first do any currency exchange at the desk on the left before customs - it is run by a bank and is kosher. The customs official wanted to see inside our cases: we had various gifts for J&S and their school which the official wanted to tax at 50%. Argument ensued: he held his ground, but after making the point very clearly that we couldn't just bring in anything, he walked away with a smile on his face. That action I later confirmed means "I'm turning a blind eye so beat it". Beat it we gladly did. The next challenge was to find the correct domestic terminal (there seem to be several). Would be visitors note: don't try to figure this one out yourself, just ask a few people: most are very helpful. This way you might save yourself walking aimlessly. The second person we asked turned out to be a self-appointed porter who, I give him his due, did a good job with our heavy cases. I tipped him 200Ksh and he almost leapt for joy. J later suggested 50Ksh might have been more appropriate as 200Ksh is a typical day's wage. For the uninitiated 100Ksh is approximately 1$US, a bit less than 1 euro.

Hebron Community Church, Mudete

From Nairobi we flew into Kisumu (a cinch compared with Nairobi) where we were met by my son-in-law and his pastor who drove us to their homes near his church in Mudete Market. We were duly fed and watered by my daughter S and found our beds and slept off our long journey.

First impressions of East Kenya? Relief to have arrived at last in one piece and with all our bags. Chaotic and exceedingly bumpy driving conditions. Warmth of welcome by all we met. Green vegetation (I had expected everything scorched, but it is the wet season).

The reason for our trip? To visit, encourage and help J and S in their efforts to establish a pre-school and possibly primary school attached to a church in Mudete and to get a flavour of Kenyan life so as to better appreciate and pray for what they are doing now we are back home.

The rest of the story I will spin out in subsequent posts. Because if I wrote everything in one post you'd have given up reading long ago and then my efforts would be wasted as so well expressed by Dilbert.

Into Africa or not

Here I am on the end of the blower for the umpteenth time - actually Ali has done the brunt of the telephone work. All because we happened to select outward trip dates that coincided with a storm called Emma from the south and a cold wind called the Beast from the East which together was Bad.

We spent most of yesterday in vain at Dublin Airport and are now back at home trying to sort out alternative travel arrangements,

Africa, here we come - even if temporarily thwarted!