Long ago I had considered cycling the Great Western Greenway (GWG) but had dismissed it because folk said its surface was, in parts, unsuitable for a road bike with narrow tyres like mine. A few weeks ago a chance remark about Achill Island by my daughter in law prompted me to investigate again. The GWG links Westport to the Island, and I have free travel to get to Westport by rail. And thus I completed my foray a few days ago and I can confirm that the entire greenway is now good for a road bike, and the vast majority is paved (tarmac). They must have upgraded the surface recently.
The GWG is a 42km off-road cycling and walking trail is mostly built on the former Great Western Railway line. It starts in Westport and ends at Cashel in Achill Island.
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| The green tarmac but fallen tree |
So on Wednesday last I woke shortly after 4am and cycled to Heuston Station (39.2km) where I boarded the 07:35 service for Galway, changing at Athlone for Westport, arriving there at 11:00. After visiting LIDL for my customary hard tack and orange juice (as much for the bottle as for the juice), I tried to find the start of the GWG. My internet research suggested the GWG was well signposted with green markers and, in Westport, by green tarmac. Experience said otherwise - I lost the way at least twice in one case dealing with a fallen tree and ending up in dense undergrowth. This was not helpful, especially when one has a bike! But once out of the town the signage was generally good, although a few warning signs would be handy before acute bends.
I emailed Mayo County Council about signage and, after acknowledging my thanks for the greenway experience, they replied positively: We also value your constructive feedback regarding signage in Westport and Newport. Clear and consistent wayfinding is essential to ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience for all users.
But you'll be wondering why the bottle?
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| My track |
My research had forecast a 30km/hr head-wind all the way to Achill, and so it was. I arrived somewhat weary at 16:30. The bright side was that my return journey the next day was a breeze.
Using Google Maps aerial view I had identified a promising location at the eastern end of Keel beach. On arrival I passed a notice "NO CAMPING" and hoped that it did not apply to further on where I pitched my tent. A couple had already pitched their tent and there was a motor-home further on down the road. My dinner consisted of cheese and pickle sandwich and fruit scone, after which I was ready for bed even though it was not yet 8pm. I slept, but was woken by the sound of a large vehicle very close. Had they come to evict us? I kept a low profile whilst conversation was going on between whoever it was and my neighbours. But eventually it all became quiet again - perhaps it was the local farmer come to check on his sheep that roamed wild in the area?
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| My paraphernalia |
I was packed up and gone at 06:00 the next morning, before my neighbours had arisen so I never got to hear the and of that story. I had an Irish breakfast in mind, but I passed the SuperValue in Achill Sound before it had opened. I figured Newport and Westport must have eating places but any I found were of the boutique type and unsuitable for an un-washen man and his heavily laden bike. In the end I had to make do with a meal-deal at Westport's Tesco where, at the checkout, a man in front allowed me to skip his pile of produce and used his Club Card so that I could avail of the lower price for my purchase. Such folk are angels in disguise, God bless him.
One highlight was the beautiful sculpture of a man and his children of yore waving to to a passing train from their trackside cottage. You can read the back story here.
Oh... and the bottle? At my age my bladder can wake me several times during the night with the prospect of extricating myself from my sleeping bag and tent.
You can view the rest of my photos here.
