2025 Foray: Lough Talt and the Windy Gap

My track through Windy Gap and beside Lough Talt

Waking several times during the night to preempt my alarm, I finally got up at 04:30, left home at 05:00 heading towards Dublin on my bike (40km). The first hour was in the dark, aided by my Black Diamond Sprinter 500 light set and supplementary rear facing red lights for good measure. But just before reaching my destination, Heuston station, I realised something was wrong with my back wheel - it felt, well... wobbly. On further inspection I diagnosed a flat tyre - it got me to Heuston just about before total collapse. I tried pumping it up to no avail. What does one do, stranded 40km from home at 7am?  OK, I was equipped with a spare inner tube and basic tools, and the internet. The latter didn't actually lift a hand to do the work, but did inform me how easy it was to remove the rear wheel on a Trek 1.2 road bike. There wasn't time to do the necessary whilst waiting for the gate to open on my chosen service for Westport, stopping at Manulla Junction where I was to transfer to a two coach back and forth service to Ballina. And there wasn't room on the train to do the work, so I had to suffer the ignominy of a broken bike and the anxiety of travelling even further away from home not knowing for sure how things would turn out. Why anxiety? It was beyond my control, I just could not stop that little voice within saying"what if?".

Cyclists on a train get used to watching the bike rack like a hawk at every station to make sure one's own bike is not totally locked in by other bikes. Choosing a seat within sight of the rack I got to sit opposite to another cyclist whose bike was on top of mine but he was to exit before me so all OK. He turned out to be employed as a programmer in the 5G business and amongst other things we discussed 5G conspiracies and he agreed with me about the fragility of the internet as a whole and how the world has become too dependent on it, citing the scary example of remote surgery via the internet.

Always snap a shot before disassembling

So, unable to fully enjoy the journey because of my little demon "what if?", we eventually arrived at Ballina where I requisitioned the plinth outside the station where I took my bike's rear end apart. A local cycler, who had also just disembarked, offered help which I declined but was very thankful for.  Cyclists are a tight community. Anyway I finished the job and the new tyre remained inflated all the way home. But the repair must have cost me a precious half hour or so of my time allowance for the next segment of my journey which was to cycle up to Windy Gap in the Ox Mountains, then down along beautiful Lough Talt towards my destination Collooney just south of Sligo town (52.2km, elevation gain 377m). So now I had a double whammy - could I make it to the train station in Collooney in time to catch the one and only link to home - more anxiety but this time a tad more controllable as I had allowed for an extra hour in my planning. "Planning", when there is only one viable option, is a bit of an overstatement.  My lunch break (cheese and Branston sarnies) was severely curtailed, but I made it with over a half hour to spare.

Ballina terminus station

The salmon weir, Ballina

From the footbridge across the Moy

Windy Gap

Lought Talt

The route is single track with passing loops all the way until it converges into the Dublin area. My next whammy was at Edgeworthstown where the train sat for 20 minutes waiting for a down train running very late to pass.  My train did make up maybe 10 minutes of time, but my itinerary (as recommended by Irish Rail itself) allowed just 4 minutes to make the connection at Drumcondra for Sallins-and-Naas so obviously I missed it. In the event the next service was only 20 minutes later so all was well, except...

I have already mentioned that, due to the diurnal shortening of daylight hours prevalent at this time of the year, I had had to cycle in darkness for the first hour or so of my Foray: I also knew that I would arrive back home in darkness, so that every additional delay meant more darkness. And I just had to stop for F&C along the way.

I sat on a bench in Naas to eat, but could not muster much enthusiasm - the prospect of a hot shower weighed more heavily than greasy chips. So, after cramming in few more mouthfuls, I set off again and arrived back home at 21:15.  A long day out!

The morals?Always carry a spare inner tube and basic tools, be visible especially when it's dark, and don't give up and don't give in to your demons!

Collooney station

Spot the glaring error!

2025 Foray: Carlingford Greenway and Newry Canal Way

 

Carlingford Greenway

Amid reports of the remnants of Hurricane Erin affecting Irish weather, I had rescheduled the foray from Wednesday this week to the day before. I consider myself blessed - apart from a few drops during the day the only proper rain started just a few miles short of my arrival home. It's now the day after as I write this and it is raining steadily, and is due to rain the rest of the week.

I can certainly recommend this foray, although it comes even better if you are 66 or over and thus able to enjoy free travel here in Ireland. And it can be done in a day: no need for the bother of finding a suitable wild camping site and the fear of being evicted. So I set out just before 06:00 with nose and tail lights affixed to my helmet. I got to Connolly station with time to spare (42km in just over 2 hours). After an hour by train to Dundalk I then cycled to Carlingford (26km) where I joined the Greenway, which has only recently been extended all the way to Newry (20km). From Newry I joined the Newry Canal Way which follows the West bank of the now defunct Newry Canal (not to be confuesed with the Newry Ship Canal) and thence to Portadown (32km). Finally I boarded the train for Dublin Connolly changing for the commuter service to Sallins from where I cycled back home (21km) via a pizza shop.

Both Greenway and Canal Way are pretty much level which is such a pleasure when cycling. There were plenty of other users, both cyclists and walkers (with their dogs). The Carlingford Greenway in particular seemed to attract cyclists who either can't cycle and have the tendency to ride rather slowly in the centre of the path and thus not making it easy for me, operating to my tight timescale, to pass.

Newry Ship Canal from Victoria Lock

The Greenway hugs the shore line and is largely tarmac, having only a few sections that are compacted small gravel, and a couple of amazing board walk sections. However the section between Victoria Dock and the Albert basin in Newry, where the path follows the narrow spit of land between the Newry Ship Canal and the River Clanrye, is paved with larger size gravel which was a bit scary for my road bike but I successfully navigated it without puncture.  In all a Grand Day Out!

---oooOooo---

Some notes on the subject of free travel and travelling with a bicycle, for those for which the experience is new. There is the FT (public services free travel) card which entitles anyone resident in the Republic of Ireland (ROI) aged 66 or over to free travel on any state owned transport (rail or bus) and some privately run buses nation wide. You can also apply for a "ROI Senior SmartPass" card which extends this privilege to Northern Ireland (NI). I have both. Whether a paying customer or not your bicycle can accompany you on trains in both NI and ROI free of charge. You cannot take a bike (unless it folds up) on ordinary buses or the Dublin Luas tram. But a long distances coach (bus) with a large luggage space under the main seating area will also take your bicycle free of charge though I have yet to avail of this.  However the trains understandably have limited space for bikes.

In the ROI you are supposed to book a bike slot in advance, but obviously not everyone does, so on the above Connolly to Sallins route there were three bikes (including mine) vying for two bike slots. The the train was overflowing with ordinary customers. In NI you cannot book a bike in advance and space is allocated on a "first come first served" basis, which rule is of course largely ignored. For the bike space: older commuter trains in ROI have a sort of rack where one or two bikes can be stored, although it requires some dexterity to get your bike in the further slot, and if your destination is before the chap whose bike is in the nearer slot...  On newer trains including the "Enterprise" service between Dublin and Belfast there is a general area allocated to bikes and similar impediments, but no explicit "slot" so you have to lean your bike against pull-down seats and hope that not too many other bikes will be piled on top.

As stated, in ROI you (or you are supposed to) prebook cycle slot when you book a seat. The Enterprise service is run by the NI "translink" but when travelling north you book in the ROI "transport for Ireland" website whether a paying or free customer. When travelling south you book in the NI translink website. So for the return journey (going south) I attempted to book a seat, going through all the motions until the final "click to book" instead of which a notice was displayed telling me to instead present my SmartPass card to staff at the departure station (Portadown for me), and if that station was unstaffed, to present the card to the conductor on the train. I happened to arrive just as my train was pulling in, so I was flustered. I waved my card at the woman at the gate and she said I needed a ticket, so I found the ticket office waving my card and the woman there gave me all the options - just a single I cried and I need to catch this train!  Armed with card and free paper ticket I was finally admitted. And then I had to find the carriage door bearing the bicycle symbol. Fortunately I with my bike didn't have to leg it far, but on finally boarding I found the bike slot occupied by the refreshments trolley (which I was later to avail of). The trolley was hastily moved and all was well.

In summary, it helps if you have been through this rigmarole before, but whether or not you will find the station staff are always helpful and only once have I been challenged: "did you book your bike in advance?" (I had). And all for a service that cost nothing! And if there are others with bikes, talk to them: they just might know the ropes, or if not you can at least commiserate. 

2025 Foray: Achill Island and the Great Western Greenway

Long ago I had considered cycling the Great Western Greenway (GWG) but had dismissed it because folk said its surface was, in parts, unsuitable for a road bike with narrow tyres like mine.  A few weeks ago a chance remark about Achill Island by my daughter in law prompted me to investigate again. The GWG links Westport to the Island, and I have free travel to get to Westport by rail. And thus I completed my foray a few days ago and I can confirm that the entire greenway is now good for a road bike, and the vast majority is paved (tarmac). They must have upgraded the surface recently.

The GWG is a 42km off-road cycling and walking trail is mostly built on the former Great Western Railway line. It starts in Westport and ends at Cashel in Achill Island.

The green tarmac but fallen tree

So on Wednesday last I woke shortly after 4am and cycled to Heuston Station (39.2km) where I boarded the 07:35 service for Galway, changing at Athlone for Westport, arriving there at 11:00. After visiting LIDL for my customary hard tack and orange juice (as much for the bottle as for the juice), I tried to find the start of the GWG. My internet research suggested the GWG was well signposted with green markers and, in Westport, by green tarmac. Experience said otherwise - I lost the way at least twice in one case dealing with a fallen tree and ending up in dense undergrowth. This was not helpful, especially when one has a bike! But once out of the town the signage was generally good, although a few warning signs would be handy before acute bends.

I emailed Mayo County Council about signage and, after acknowledging my thanks for the greenway experience, they replied positively: We also value your constructive feedback regarding signage in Westport and Newport. Clear and consistent wayfinding is essential to ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience for all users.

But you'll be wondering why the bottle?

This early in the morning it is still dark, but my son had recently given me his Black Diamond Sprinter 500 for such a time as this, though I had a bit of bother fixing it to my helmet.

My track

My research had forecast a 30km/hr head-wind all the way to Achill, and so it was. I arrived somewhat weary at 16:30. The bright side was that my return journey the next day was a breeze.

Using Google Maps aerial view I had identified a promising location at the eastern end of Keel beach. On arrival I passed a notice "NO CAMPING" and hoped that it did not apply to further on where I pitched my tent. A couple had already pitched their tent and there was a motor-home further on down the road. My dinner consisted of cheese and pickle sandwich and fruit scone, after which I was ready for bed even though it was not yet 8pm. I slept, but was woken by the sound of a large vehicle very close. Had they come to evict us? I kept a low profile whilst conversation was going on between whoever it was and my neighbours. But eventually it all became quiet again - perhaps it was the local farmer come to check on his sheep that roamed wild in the area?

My paraphernalia

I was packed up and gone at 06:00 the next morning, before my neighbours had arisen so I never got to hear the and of that story. I had an Irish breakfast in mind, but I passed the SuperValue in Achill Sound before it had opened. I figured Newport and Westport must have eating places but any I found were of the boutique type and unsuitable for an un-washen man and his heavily laden bike. In the end I had to make do with a meal-deal at Westport's Tesco where, at the checkout, a man in front allowed me to skip his pile of produce and used his Club Card so that I could avail of the lower price for my purchase. Such folk are angels in disguise, God bless him.

   

One highlight was the beautiful sculpture of a man and his children of yore waving to to a passing train from their trackside cottage. You can read the back story here.

Oh... and the bottle? At my age my bladder can wake me several times during the night with the prospect of extricating myself from my sleeping bag and tent.

You can view the rest of my photos here.

2025 Foray: Sheep's Head Way

Sheep's Head - my track

The facts

The plan

Bus 65 from the bottom of our road to the Square, Luas to Heuston station, train to Cork, walk to the bus station via Lidl (to stock up on hard tack: 8 fruit scones), bus 236 to Bantry. Thanks to my Free Travel pass.

The hike proper started at Bantry and my plan was to get to the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula and back in 4 days each of 20km, ending at Durrus Cross where I would hail the 236 bus, etc. 

Stock photo of the lighthouse I failed to get to

What actually happened

I did a total of 49.6km in 3 days thus 2 overnights. Overall elevation gain 1417m.

At the end of the first day I figured I couldn't manage 20km in a day with 8.5kg on my back in this heat-wave we are experiencing. So I reduced my expectations to:

First day: distance 13km, average speed moving 3.8km/h, 455m elevation gain, camp elevation 230m.

Second day: distance 16.3km, average speed moving 3.5km/h, elevation gain 552m, maximum height (Seefin, the highest peak) 345m. Minimum height zero at Farrangnanagh beach, my second campsite.

Third day: my original plans scuppered, I realised I could make it home a day early if I left early enough. So I set the alarm for 04:45 but got up at 04:30, struck camp at 05:05 and took the most direct route (so my GPS on pedestrian mode claimed) to Durrus Cross. Distance 20.22km, average speed moving 4.5km/h, elevation gain 409m. With about 30 minutes spare I hailed the bus and made all the connections to return on the 56 bus at 19:15, where my wife (bless her) was waiting to drive me the last mile to our home. 

The meaning

Folk at home were asking why did I not fulfil my plan? As if it was some kind of fun I was having. Good question. But maybe these people have never done a backpack hike at 72 years of age, when one's GP has advised me to "take it easy" (I have a partially blocked coronary artery). To know what it is to clamber up and down hills with 8.5kg on one's back, find a suitable site to erect one's tent, get in and don't feel like doing anything other than sleep. Up again the next morning (everything covered in heavy dew) only to repeat the exercise.

When I was young I wanted to demonstrate my strength to myself. Now I am older I set myself challenges to test the onset of weakness. Like, will this be the last time I get to do whatever? And I care less about what other people might think. 

Message to other would be's

To hiking amateurs like me, a major challenge of this one was the availability of food and, in particular, water. I was carrying a 2 litre bottle of water in my backpack and up to a further litre in a hand-held bag. For my original plan, that had to last me two days from Bantry all the way to the lighthouse and then some to Bernie's Cupán Tae (open from noon, so limited good for early starters like myself), else The Old Creamery in Kilcrohane (where I breakfasted).

So, do your hydration calculations well. Waterproof boots are advisable (mine were not) as you'll be going through muddy water ankle deep even in dry weather. Have a change of clothing, and remember it gets cold during the night even in good weather. Be prepared for the possibility of ticks (I found one, and had to excavate a second one a day after getting home). Don't worry too much about wondering where to wild camp: there's plenty of places where no one will mind. And I wish I'd known that there's a Local Link bus from Kilcrohane to Bantry.

Pictures

Click here to see my Sheep's Head album. Many of the pictures have a short description. To see this, having first selected any picture, click on the circle enclosing an 'i' at top right.

2025 Foray: The Barrow Line

River Slate, Rathangan

My son gave me a North Face tent and my wife a backpack upgrade. But what good are they unless I use them? And so, with my medical condition in mind, I planned a trilogy of hikes in increasing order of challenge: 

(1)  A three and a half day hike along the Barrow Line canal and river and thus on the level;

(2)  A three or four day hike along the Sheep's Head peninsula (from sea level to 300m max.);

(3)  A three week hike along Offa's Dyke (between Wales and England) max. 685m

So far I have attempted (1) and failed. It would of course look better if I redefined my goal as a two day's hike but...  To explain: the Barrow Line is a canal that links the Grand Canal (one of the two canals that link the great and mighty Shannon with Dublin) with the navigable reach of the River Barrow at Athy.  My plan was to follow this "Barrow Way" for the majority of its distance:

Summary distances

Sallins to Lowtown 13km along the Grand canal

Lowtown to Rathangan 12.5km along the Barrow Line canal

Rathangan to Monasterevin* 10.6km

Monasterevin to Athy* 23km the Barrow Line meets the Barrow River

Athy to Carlow* 19km along the Barrow River

Carlow to Bagenalstown* 16km

total 94km = 19 hrs suggest 3 days

* Note - there's a handy rail station at each asterisked town for returning home

Whilst "19hrs" was calculated at a walking pace of 5km/h and spread between three days appears to be reasonable, "94km" divided by 3 is over 30km per day. Which is a considerable distance.  I actually achieved 66km over two days before I decided "enough is enough". Seriously, I think I could have made the whole distance had it not been for this 8.75kg load on my back. But how can you overnight without a tent and sleeping bag, not to mentions the other accoutrements a minimalistic backpacker considers essential, water being the heaviest?

I arrived in Athy in time for the train and bus connection to get me back home at 18:30. And, oh how I slept that night!

What do you do when walking these interminable distances? You muse. You pray for everyone in your immediate circle. You counts strides in tens, then tens in tens. My stride is about 1.2m so ten is 12m and ten of them 120m... just a measly 120m. Not even a kilometre. When praying I habitually ask for some confirmation that there actually is someone listening. Not just hearing about another person's experience - this has to be my experience. Is it too much to ask God to reveal himself to me personably?  But it occurred to me that, maybe, this whole hike and its abortion was God speaking? Perhaps he is saying that 33km per day is too much for me.

OK other people do vastly more challenging challenges like this guy who ran from Perth to Sydney: that's 3,844 km. Maybe he was younger than I am. Maybe he wasn't carrying a 8.75kg back pack?

You can check out my photos here.

I ran

Ever since I can remember I have preferred to run. I get irritated when, in a crowded street, other folk walk oh so slowly and I want to get past and live my life! My sentiments are aptly described in a dream I had and a paper my daughter in law wrote, and here where I wish I were Mowgli. 

Are my running days over?

It started with tightness across my chest when running up a mild incline. My GP sent me to a consultant who interpreted a CT-scan as indicating arterial “plaque, most severe in the mid LAD vessel where there is between 50-69% stenosis” (blockage). Google tells me that LAD is short for a "major coronary artery that supplies blood to the front and left side of the heart. It's considered the largest of the three main coronary arteries and is often referred to as the "widowmaker" due to its significance in fatal heart attacks... usually a blockage of the LAD artery has to be more than 70% to cause significant problems" above which a stent may be advised.

All this is rather scary. They are telling me to "take it easy” and to stop any activity that brings on the tightness (angina). A hard imposition on someone who is used to running everywhere.

I'm now taking a prescribed blood thinner and self-imposed minerals and vitamins. In a few weeks I have an appointment with the consultant who doubtless will impose further drugs which I hate. I'm trying to eat more healthily "no sugar" (well, almost none), reduced carbs, salad and beetroot (can you believe it?). 

Looks like this is going to be a journey. I must cheer up and be more positive. If running (~10km/h) is out, I can still jog slowly (~7km/h) even if not "uphill". And so far walking (~5km/h) seems to be OK, even with a backpack, providing the path is not steep. I'm encouraged by testimonies like that of Mark. 

Older

Growing older. You don't think about it much until it happens to you. The mountain bike boy I met a few weeks back whilst walking in the forestry, tackling scary obstacles on the narrow bike trails carved out of the hillside: we are two generations apart and yet he had the grace to stop and wish me well. I don't even know your name, but I hope that the brakes on your bike are good - please don't fall and hurt yourself because I want you to live life to the full.

Another boy in his early teens: I teach him woodwork - there's such a sparkle in his eyes, such a rejoicing in his new-found skills, so thankful for the time I give him, so outspoken for his age (in a good way, wanting to complete the projects I set by himself without my interference). Again I find myself looking forward and wondering what life has in store for him.

I wish I were young again. Without a care, no aches or pains, with a portion of that youthful vigour that now seems so elusive.

But then there's T, now in his late teens, suffering from leukaemia - I know him only via social media, but have been praying for his "complete healing" for about eight years now. The medical staff have no doubt been wonderful, but I have hoped and asked for so much more. A young life in the balances - why, why O Lord? And how dare I complain about my own aches and pains when he has had to grapple with this condition for so long, in and out of hospital.

I aim to jog four or five miles several times a week (barefoot of course). It used to be that, when it was cold outside, I would start off with a long enough sprint to warm up. But I find I can no longer do this: chest tightness tells me to slow down. I am told this is due to plaque forming in my arteries - not yet life threatening but the doctor wants to put me on all manner of drugs with scary common side effects. I don't want drugs. I want to be young again!

Generally speaking I think I am relatively fit for my age and I am so thankful for that. But there's no getting away from it: I'm not as young as I used to me. Growing older.

Boys a dear!

Boys a dear! An exclamation in norn-iron (Northern Ireland) speak. It's a great phrase because it can be used in so many different situations, like "Boys a dear, it's warm today isn't it?"

Something unusual happened today.  

First the back-story: the townland of Lugnagroagh includes some forestry on a hillside and is just up the road from where we live so is a favourite destination for an afternoon walk. Recently some bike trails have appeared in the forest and I've made it my job to investigate them. Clearly a lot of effort has been put into creating these trails and I wanted to find out more. My first map (courtesy OpenTopoMaps in OruxMaps) shows the general lie of the land, with the bike tracks in red.

My second map zooms in using Google aerial view to which I have added the existing forestry tracks in green and ESB power lines in yellow. Broken red lines are paths that existed before the bike trails appeared.  I have labelled the various bike trails arbitrarily with letters A, B, etc. The blue 'P' is a parking area. Click on the image to enlarge it.

My OruxMaps GPS tracks in red

A few days ago I discovered trail 'A' previously unknown to me up to where it joins an existing path. Whilst ascending this trail I met a trio of boys on BMX bikes. That was no surprise for it was a bike trail on which I was "trespassing": what surprised me was that they chose to stop to talk to me, asking if I often came here, etc. After this brief encounter I continued my upward way, reached the cell-phone tower and, looking for a return path, discovered trail E. Similarly, a few days later I discovered trail D.

These trails are narrow paths peppered with well cambered bends and obstacles sometimes using existing boulders or fallen tree trunks or just man made humps of earth, on what is often quite steep terrain. Certainly exciting, possibly dangerous, but I am so glad that someone has taken the trouble to make these trails and that there are youngsters intrepid enough to enjoy navigating them.

So today I fancied I would complete my reconnoitre and found myself ascending previously undiscovered trail C and met two boys with their BMX's, doubtless the same group. The amazing thing was that, once again, they actually volunteered to stop to talk and wish me well. I asked if they had helped to create the tracks and one of them had, and I indicated my approval. All of which made my day (I am kind of easily pleased by such pleasantries, camaraderie indeed, coming from the younger generation).