2025 Foray: Sheep's Head Way

Sheep's Head - my track

The facts

The plan

Bus 65 from the bottom of our road to the Square, Luas to Heuston station, train to Cork, walk to the bus station via Lidl (to stock up on hard tack: 8 fruit scones), bus 236 to Bantry. Thanks to my Free Travel pass.

The hike proper started at Bantry and my plan was to get to the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula and back in 4 days each of 20km, ending at Durrus Cross where I would hail the 236 bus, etc. 

Stock photo of the lighthouse I failed to get to

What actually happened

I did a total of 49.6km in 3 days thus 2 overnights. Overall elevation gain 1417m.

At the end of the first day I figured I couldn't manage 20km in a day with 8.5kg on my back in this heat-wave we are experiencing. So I reduced my expectations to:

First day: distance 13km, average speed moving 3.8km/h, 455m elevation gain, camp elevation 230m.

Second day: distance 16.3km, average speed moving 3.5km/h, elevation gain 552m, maximum height (Seefin, the highest peak) 345m. Minimum height zero at Farrangnanagh beach, my second campsite.

Third day: my original plans scuppered, I realised I could make it home a day early if I left early enough. So I set the alarm for 04:45 but got up at 04:30, struck camp at 05:05 and took the most direct route (so my GPS on pedestrian mode claimed) to Durrus Cross. Distance 20.22km, average speed moving 4.5km/h, elevation gain 409m. With about 30 minutes spare I hailed the bus and made all the connections to return on the 56 bus at 19:15, where my wife (bless her) was waiting to drive me the last mile to our home. 

The meaning

Folk at home were asking why did I not fulfil my plan? As if it was some kind of fun I was having. Good question. But maybe these people have never done a backpack hike at 72 years of age, when one's GP has advised me to "take it easy" (I have a partially blocked coronary artery). To know what it is to clamber up and down hills with 8.5kg on one's back, find a suitable site to erect one's tent, get in and don't feel like doing anything other than sleep. Up again the next morning (everything covered in heavy dew) only to repeat the exercise.

When I was young I wanted to demonstrate my strength to myself. Now I am older I set myself challenges to test the onset of weakness. Like, will this be the last time I get to do whatever? And I care less about what other people might think. 

Message to other would be's

To hiking amateurs like me, a major challenge of this one was the availability of food and, in particular, water. I was carrying a 2 litre bottle of water in my backpack and up to a further litre in a hand-held bag. For my original plan, that had to last me two days from Bantry all the way to the lighthouse and then some to Bernie's Cupán Tae (open from noon, so limited good for early starters like myself), else The Old Creamery in Kilcrohane (where I breakfasted).

So, do your hydration calculations well. Waterproof boots are advisable (mine were not) as you'll be going through muddy water ankle deep even in dry weather. Have a change of clothing, and remember it gets cold during the night even in good weather. Be prepared for the possibility of ticks (I found one, and had to excavate a second one a day after getting home). Don't worry too much about wondering where to wild camp: there's plenty of places where no one will mind. And I wish I'd known that there's a Local Link bus from Kilcrohane to Bantry.

Pictures

Click here to see my Sheep's Head album. Many of the pictures have a short description. To see this, having first selected any picture, click on the circle enclosing an 'i' at top right.